May Tack and Training Tips

(Please keep in mind that these are methods I use most everyday and have worked for me in the past.  However all horses are different as well as peoples feel and timing are different from my own.  Please exercise safety first for both horse and handler.)
 
 
Welcome to my tack and training tip of the month!  Each month I have been going over key pieces of tack that are used everyday but are sometimes a mystery as to how and why we use them.  This moth I wanted to talk a bit about Night latches.  Like most of our working tack it was created out of necessity and has withstood the test of time and is still considered a must have for many.
 
When ranching wasn't a lifestyle but a way of life cowboys were required to stay with a herd of cattle at all times.   Wild cattle are overly cautious through the day and even more so at night, willing to run from a noise or sudden movement in a rush without regard to anything in their way.  A nightmans job was to stay with the cattle through the night and keep them calm.  Often singing soft and low or humming would distract and calm them, but that made for a very long night as the night-man had to keep a sharp eye out and his wits about him at all times.  Should he slump in the saddle for a bit of sleep and slip off, chances were he was a dead man.  Thus by having a Night latch on his saddle he could slip his hand through and get a good grip.  Should he begin to fall, now he had a life line to catch himself.
 
 
 
 
Though there are not but a handful now that use the Night latch in this way, it is still a wonderful bit of tack that is finally making a comeback in the western world.  A Night latch can be anything from a nylon dog collar to a 1 inch heavy latigo strap cut from a bit of rein.  Most are about 21 inches give or take a bit.  It comes in handy for colt starting as it is more secure to hold onto than the saddle horn and is great for riding an inexperienced horse outside.  Should the horse want to jump a water crossing again the Night latch is there to grab hold of.  Some have come to call it a bucking strap.
 
Many places charge $20 and over for a night latch but you can make one for a great deal less.  I have seen some folks take three strands of soft rope left over from a project, braid them together and tie it onto the saddle as a night latch.  I have even taken a trip to the dreaded Wal-mart to the dog section and picked out a 3/4 inch leather dog collar that had only the buckle.  Should you wish to give one a try first decide on what hand you use to hold the reins the most, left or right.  If you are left handed, or you hold your reins in your left hand then place the night latch onto the right side of your pommel.  If right handed, then place it on the left side.  One key thing is to put it on fairly loose so that you don't have to "search"  for it, but can just slip your hand in and grab a hold. 
  
  
  
  
[size=5]                           May Training tip[/size]

                                                        Side-pass 
Many years ago I asked a trainer how he taught a horse to open and close a gate or side pass.  He tipped his hat and gave me a sideways glance through squinted eyes.  "Get em up to a gate and don't let em move anywhere but to the gate."  With that he went on about his day leaving me to scratch my head and wonder if there was an easier way.  Another fella several years later said the way he had learned was put the horse to the gate and keep using a small whip to make noise in the air next to the colt to get him to move away from it or towards the gate.  Now I knew there had to be an easier way for me and the horse to learn.
 
Over the last several months we have been working on getting our horses soft and light in the head, neck and poll.  From that we began working from the ground to get a good consistent hindquarter disengagement that would work for us once under saddle.  Last month we practiced getting a good hindquarter disengagement first from the stand still then from a walk.  Many people over look how important it is to have control of their horses hindquarters.  With out this there can be no side pass and no lead changes, but more importantly we are getting control of our horses engine. 
 
Once again we will need to refresh our horses on the previous lessons and get some of the fresh off of them.  This lesson will not move along very well if your horse is not soft in the head neck and poll so really go over the basics before beginning.  In this lesson it is important that your horse knows how to break at the poll and be soft off of your leg.  Remember your leg positions!!!  If your horse is still fighting you or pulling on your hands go back a few steps and work on getting him soft first.  Things will come together much better for you both.
 
 
Before we begin there is one vital thing I must discuss.  Any horse can benefit from learning something new like how to side pass but it is key to know your horses limits.  Some horses will try with all of their heart to get this but never have the athletic ability of the horse next to you.  Some have the ability to fly sideways but never have the heart to try very hard for you.  Keep this in mind and remember that if you are getting frustrated and mad because your horse can't or wont do it, chances are your horse is even more frustrated.  Take a break, drink a soda, eat a candy bar and clear your head.  Come back in ten minutes and try again.
 
Equipment needed:  Good rope halter, 12- 14 foot lead line(preferably no chain for groundwork), Good fitting saddle and pad, Snap on reins or snaffle bit and bridle. safe straight wall or fence with good footing.
 
Optional equipment:  Spurs, small whip, and protective boots as your horse will be crossing his feet thus causing injury or discomfort(a horse in pain will not try for long) should he miss step.
 
Problems encountered:  Horse locks up, moves backwards, wants to turn and move away from the wall, horse starts tossing his head.
 
 
After moving your horse around to get the fresh off and to accustom him to following a straight wall or fence its time to begin.  Walk your horse anywhere from 4 to 6 feet from the wall in a good straight line.  Lets say the wall is now on your left side, let your horse walk along on a good loose rein.  Now pick up on the left rein only and tip your horses nose to the wall.  Lift up and over on the rein to lift our horses shoulders.  If we pulled down we would cause him to drop his shoulders.  Your hands should remain in front of the saddle, your left just slightly higher than the right and farther out to the side.  Basically you are leading your horse to the wall with your left hand.
 
 
 
As your horse tips his nose and begins turning to the wall, drop the rein, and place your left foot back into position C to disengage the hindquarters.  Don't let the horse turn and walk out of this.  Keep them facing the wall and let them stand for a moment to soak what you just asked.  Getting a couple of steps is just what you are looking for.  Ask for too much now and he will get confused and frustrated.  Remember simple and slow.
 
 

 
Keep doing this several times until your horse is turning and standing calmly facing the wall from both directions.  When both you and your horse are comfortable with that move on to the next step.  Now when you tip the nose, move the hips over, you will immediately move your leg from position C to B before your horses movement stops completely.  Keep your horses nose either straight at the wall or slightly tipped in the opposite direction of movement.  Look for only one step at this point.   The front feet should cross over but his body remain straight to the wall.  Immediately release all pressure.
 
 
 
(Here I have him at the correct distance to teach the sidepass.  His nose is tipped in the opposite direction I want to go and just as his hind crosses over I have moved my foot to B or just at the cinch.  Even though I have picked up on the reins I still haven't made contact on the halter.  I am mearly using them as a guide to let him know where his shoulders should be.)
 
 
Key things to remember are to really exadurate what you are trying to teach by shifting your weight away from the direction of travel and taking the (in this case) the right leg off completely.  When teaching this if the horse gets confused and steps his hind over I simply move him into position again and this time bring your foot into position A to encourage the shoulders to follow the hind.  Keep your hands up slightly and in front of the horn to elevate the horses shoulders.  If he is balanced he will be able to move much more smoothly. 

(Tipped him to the wall and moving the hips over.)
 
 

(Here you can see how far my weight is shifted.  I am asking him to move to the left or towards the camera so my left leg is completely off opening the door so to speak.  His nose is tipped and he has just crossed over on the front but is lagging on the hind.  Remember to help them out when they do this by moving your leg to C and reminding them of what they are doing.) 
Common mistakes are allowing the horse to come to a complete stop before asking for the cross over in front.  It should be a flowing motion and with this practice makes prettier!  It will look and feel very awkward at first but the more you and your horse work to refine it off of the wall the smoother it will be.  Another mistake is walking the horse too far from the wall allowing the horse to mealy turn to the wall rather than make the disengagement.  ( The very first picture I have Shadow about a foot too far from the wall and his disengagement wasn't clean and smooth.)
 
Using the wall inhibits the horses forward motion so that you can focus more on getting the horse accustomed to moving off of your leg in such a fashion.  Also this sets you up for later as here you are not so concerned over hand placement as what will follow.  This helps you and your horse learn the basic steps to lead up to a great side-pass.
 
 
When you and your horse are confident and ready to move on there are several ways to refine the side-pass.  One is to put your horse to the task of opening and closing gates.  When you are doing this job you are having to move his hindquarters and shoulders to position him correctly.  The goal here is to be able to open, move through, and close the gate again without loosing contact.  Though we are moving the horses body around we are still not messing with getting too technical with the reins just yet.  Let the horse find the answer through the task.  It not only helps him understand why but how to focus on the task at hand just as you are.
 
 

 
When you and your horse are ready you can put everything together away from the wall.  Here I have Shadow moved up and coming off of the halter really well.  I have his nose tipped to the right, don't over bend them here.  Just want to see the outline of the eye.  My right rein in this is suporting while my left is directing.  He is moving off of my right leg staying soft.  Shadow is the kind of horse that will try his heart out and get the job done, but without some energy from my legs he gets dumpy and lags behind on the rear.
 
With this now in our tool box we are getting closer to lead changes and move complicated manuvers.  Not to mention a better bond with our horse.  I hope you have enjoyed this months tack and training tips!    Always practice safety first for both horse and rider.
 
Thanks to all who read and remember "Be a student of the horse and your journey will never end."