Turns and strikes out when trying to lunge

Hi welcome to the forum.  When you talk about lounging him is he online or off?  Is it a 14 ft lead or 25?
 
Here is what I would try.  Get a good rope halter and no more than a 14ft lead rope, more than that and there simply is too much rope there to handle if the horse needs correcting, not to mention you have enough safe distance should he kick or strike out.  you can also use the tail end of the lead instead of a training stick if your not comfortable with it.  The first pic I have a knoted rope halter and 14ft lead line on.  When I teach how to lounge a horse in our clinics the first thing I go over is how to hold the rope.  I have the rope in my left hand meaning I am going to send him off to the left.  If needed I can pick up on the lead and pull toward my belly and you'll always have better leverage and less chance of hurting yourself when you hold the rope this way.  Students are taught that when the horse is moving to have thier fingers pointing in the direction of travel like a gun, arm raised.  Holding it loosely alows the rope to slide through your hands and helps prevent getting rope burn if the horse trys to bolt.

 
Next is I am going to stand infront or slightly off to one side of my horse.  I have changed hands and am sending him off to the right, arm raised pointing the desired direction and at the same time I am twirling the end of the lead at his shoulder to move it over.  ONce his shoulders are disengaged then I will drive the hindquarters but don't make the mistake of actually moving to the hind or else he will swing around and face you again to yeild the hind.  I can use the roundpen wall to help keep a horse from pulling away if I need to.  If a horse wants to turn into me like your horse for what ever reason, if I didn't cue him to come in, I will give a flip of the lead so that the snap catches his jaw to get his attention and move my body into more of a crouching postion and step toward his front at the same time using either the lead or the training stick to tap his shoulder, neck or jaw to enforce my point of moving away.  As soon as he does relaxe again to show him that was the right response and make sure that when you are lounging him your belt buckle stays in the center of his ribs or the girth line, direction hand up, driving hand about waist high. 
 
This horse was in one of our clinics and he kept trying to brace up and bolt for the gate.  On the second time around he really set up on me and decided to try and drag me out of the arena.  This is the moment I went for his hindquarters.  At the same time I gave a good couple of tugs on the lead and moved to his hip.  He is realizing that he needs to look at me and move his hinny out of my way.  You can see his back right is just getting ready to cross over the hind left.    Just remember that if they face and come in move to the head, neck and shoulders.  If they try and turn away move to the hind.  Hope this helps and gives you a better idea of what to do.  I had the pics from the article I never got put together for the forum!  LOL  stay safe and have fun.

As I've said before, QHs are not naturally the most docile of  horses.
 
My motto with them is that there are some you can't go at head on...go toe to toe with them and they of course have the upper hand. Then you have to come at them sideways and make them think whatever it is you're manipulating them to do is their idea, not yours. Trainer's advice is excellent.
 
 

I will say though, a horse that strikes and bites at me will get lashed wherever the lash lands, while I step to the side. I generally try to avoid the legs because it seems to encourage them to kick (or strike). I keep horses from running up behind me and getting pushy by either swinging the end of the lead in a circle behind me, or carrying a training whip under my arm and waving it while walking so the tip waves right at about chest or head level, and if they're crowding, they get it. You control the space by adjusting the whip under your arm. Because of the way you're holding it (or swinging the lead) it isn't a vicious lash, it's just a natural consequence of getting within that space. HOrses kick each other in the face and neck for crowding and charging. I don't feel too bad about slapping them with a lead rope or the tickle end of a training whip for doing the same.
 
Please don't think I'm advocating getting into a fight with a horse over this sort of behavior. But suffering a natural consequence is a different thing from glaring a horse down and beating them, if that makes any sense.
 
Be careful.
 
Then there are always hobbles. That would put an end to the striking and the charging, at the very least. I'm not exactly sure how I'd go about that, but I could figure out something with a dangerous horse....maybe just taking him out with hobbles on until he forgets that he ever engaged in that dangerous behavior, then taking him out without them and continuing with your program.
 
Kinda extreme, but that's extreme behavior, and very dangerous.

I have tried lunging him in a round  pen and on a 14ft lunge line. He always acts the same. The more I try to turn this hindquarters out the madder he gets. I have used a lunge whip and tried to get him to run around the round pen but the same result always happens. But its been raining the past couple of days so I havent tried working with him yet but I will try when it dries up soon. Thank you so much for everyones advice.

Don't go to the hindquarters when he turns into you, go for the neck and shoulders.  I doubt lounge whips will make much difference to him but you might try tying a plastic bag to the end of the whip or an empty milk jug with a couple of pennys in there to really get his attention.  He has realized that by doing this he is controling you.  Will he back up on line for you?  If so use that to your advantage as each time he comes at you back him up with a lot of energy and really make him hustle then send him off agian.  Don't you move just see if you can act crazy enough to convince him that perhaps it is in his best interest to move away.
 
 

When I started my mare as a two year old, she would try and run into the circle and kick me EVERY chance she got, I tried and outside line but that didn't keep her out either, and as soon as I stopped nagging at her and turning with her, she would do circles around me, but that's also the time I started natural horsemanship with her, so her respect came around 10 fold, and we got on the same page. If he's stopping and facing you I wouldn't punish that, just pause a second then send him again, remember to stay calm, and try to smile, if he feels your getting irritated he prolly thinks it's fun, my mare thrived on my anger, shes a foundation quarter horse who comes from a very sassy stubborn mother, and she deff takes after her.. hehe

[quote=linaew]

When I started my mare as a two year old, she would try and run into the circle and kick me EVERY chance she got, I tried and outside line but that didn't keep her out either, and as soon as I stopped nagging at her and turning with her, she would do circles around me, but that's also the time I started natural horsemanship with her, so her respect came around 10 fold, and we got on the same page. If he's stopping and facing you I wouldn't punish that, just pause a second then send him again, remember to stay calm, and try to smile, if he feels your getting irritated he prolly thinks it's fun, my mare thrived on my anger, shes a foundation quarter horse who comes from a very s****y stubborn mother, and she deff takes after her.. hehe


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