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Saddle Shims

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Saddle Shims
  • The 7" draft saddle I had made for my wide Haffies fit sweet P's sire, Gibson perfectly but was too wide in the shoulder for Sweet P. 

    I have all kinds of tricks for saddle fit, but it is like plugging numbers into an equation - if you plug the number in the wrong place, or plug in the wrong number, your answer can be a disaster. 

    I got lucky today and ended up with perfect.  I used a set of shims I had made from a Cashel Tush CUsh some time ago.  They are tapered to about 3/16" of an inch (1/2 cm) on two edges and are 1/2" (1.25 cm) on the other edges.

    A picture is worth a thousand words.  First, shims.  Then, saddle with and without shims. Notice the shims only cover the bottom and outer aspects of the saddle tree.
  • More pics, without shims and then with shims and pad.  I need to get black duct tape!
  • More pics.  Using SMX Air ride pad, NOT the Ortho Sport - just a single layer thin pad. 

    Rode around the farm, very balanced ride, no extra bulk under my legs, good contact, no problems with saddle roll, slippage, pitching forward or back when climbing hills.
  • Here's my final 2 cents on shims.

    Shims can be used to fix a saddle that is too big.  They almost never work on a saddle that is too small.  The exception to that statement is that the SMX Ortho Sport pad has a built-in shim that fills in behind the withers on high-withered horses where the saddle fit voids behind the shoulder and pinches the scapulae.

    The biggest problem with shims is that they often end up putting excessive pressure in one area with a void around the border of the shim.  If the shim is too thick, or not placed properly, it will only make saddle fit worse.  If the shims are not identical and are not placed at exactly the same part of the saddle on both sides of the tree, you will end up with more problems than you started with.

    I like the set of shims I am using because of their tapered edges.   They form a seamless transition with the bar of the saddle. I made them from a Cashel Tush Cush, Western style.  Their shape allows for lots of experimentation.  They are made from closed-cell foam that will work with the shape of the horse and the shape of the saddle bar to disperes pressure evenly.

    Shimming up the front of a saddle can cause the saddle to put too much pressure over the loins, or worse it can cause the saddle to bottom out on the spine under the cantle.  You need to be thorough in assessing the fit of the saddle after shimming it.  A pad that offers good spine clearance si essential in this case, as you may have observed from my photos.  Do NOT use a standard pad that is the same thickness over the spine as it is under the bars.  Buy a pad with at least 1/4" spine clearance on each side of the spine, this is a FLAT THIN area in the pad along the back.


  • very cool and loved the pics.  Gorilla tape is made in black, by the way, and is very very good.
     
    I wish you lived close to me so you could check out my saddles and how they fit! 
     
    Nelli