April Tack and Training Tips
Vol 6 2009
Welcome to my tack and training tip of the month!
(Please keep in mind that these are methods I use most everyday and have worked for me in the past. However all horses are different as well as peoples feel and timing are different from my own. Please exercise safety first for both horse and handler.)
When it comes to tack many of us buy the best that we can afford for both our horses comfort and our own but even the best tack can and will break. The more I ride with a group or just down the trail alone, I have come to rely on one key piece of equipment that can bail me out if needed.
The Banana bag or more well known as the
Cantle bag is a great way to stay prepared for the worst.
There are many varieties, shapes and sizes of Cantle bags. Some are leather, canvas and more prominent is the nylon. Made to fit just behind the cantle of the saddle or the back of the seat, they tie down or snap on snuggly and don't interfere with your leg movement getting on or off. The name Banana bag came about at the shape most bags are made to curve around the cantle. Most are large enough to carry a variety of extras such as a leather hole punch, leather strings, a spare rein, first aid kit, spare latigo strap, as well as electrolytes for your horse and duct tape should a shoe come loose. Many of these things I have had to use to get me back safely and with each new problem that I encounter I customize what I am going to carry.
Within that small bag we can carry a life line of whether we walk back or ride back and sometimes whether we get back at all. Remember that not all bags are created equal and choose what best suits your needs. If you ride in all weather conditions invest a bit more and get a water proof one or if you trail ride on weekends with friends then perhaps a nylon one would best work for you. When putting everything together stop and think back on things that have happened before to you far from home. Bee stings? Out after dark? Horse stepped on a rein and snapped it? Always hope for the best ride but prepare for the worst.
This first cantle bag is a water proof bag with a larger compartment, not to mention an easy to see bright yellow.
The second is a more unusual one shaped like the old calvery bed roll. Its made out of leather with a storm flap that covers the zipper to keep the contents dry in a rain.
The one on Shadow is a nylon black cantle bag. These can be found in almost any color and are fairly cheap. (I really need a new waterproof one!)
A great horseman once said that to make a good horse we must have good feel, timing and experience. Mr. Ray Hunt coined that phrase and it has reverberated though out the equine industry ever since. Horses learn though the release of pressure, not the pressure itself. Therefore we must be able to feel though our reins, seat, and legs to know when our horse is responding correctly. The timing is the release of pressure at the moment, or just before the moment the horse understands and gives us a try. The only way to get good at this is though experience and that means working with our horse.
Through the last several months we started our horses on lateral flexion and vertical flexion, disengaging the hindquarters and standing still to mount. Even though those were our main goals we accomplished much more. Through steady work we have also created a more willing partner who is calmer and more respectful. This month is no different. Building on the previous lessons we will work on getting our horse to move forward then, yield the hindquarters to a stop.
From now on you will hear me refer to leg position A B and C. A being just in front of the cinch for the shoulders, B is at the cinch for the ribs and C is behind the cinch for the hindquarters. Its very important to exadurate when teaching this then you can refine it as you get better.
Equipment needed: Snaffle bit (any bit with shanks is not a true snaffle) O-ring or D-ring or full cheek is good to use. Good rope halter (if not using a bit) with snap on reins, good fitting saddle and pad.
Problems Encountered: Horse wont disengage hindquarters just circles, horse won't walk forward, heavy on the bit or halter.
I recommend that before beginning this months lesson you go get some of the fresh off of your horse and go though all the previous lessons. Call it your pre-flight check. If lounging your horse make sure there is enough room and that it is safe footing as you will want your horse to walk, trot and lope with the saddle on to ensure that everything is fitting properly.
Once you have flexed your horse on the ground, used the stirrup to disengage the hindquarters and have gotten on its time to begin this months lesson. After getting on flex your horse for awhile letting the tip of their nose just touch the tip of your boot. Make sure they are responding lightly and are not pulling on your hands. Remember to lock your elbow against your side if they are then bump, bump and hold. When they give you give. Also try to refresh your horse on giving verticaly and when they give imidiatly give them the rein right back.
Flex your horses head to the left. With their nose just in front of your boot place your heel behind the cinch, well into the flank into leg position C. As you are doing this look back at the horses hip. If you are doing it correctly you will be able to feel your weight shift just a little, your right hip move forward making stronger contact against the saddle, and the left hip swing back. Keep the off rein ( right rein) loose and maintain enough contact with the direct rein to keep the horse from straightening his head back out. Most horses, light on the rein at a stand still will grow heavy when asked to move, as well as try to jerk their head back straight. Be prepared and have your elbow locked just in case.
When you feel the horse step across on the hind legs let him out of the bend and praise him. Should he immediately try to walk off, bend his head back to the tip of your boot until you feel him soften and relax. If your horse is only walking a circle, bring his head in closer to his shoulder and place your foot a bit farther back. If he still refuses to move off of your foot use the end of the reins lightly at first then with more energy if needed until you feel him move over.
Practice this until your horse can do this calmly and stay relaxed on both sides. The key to this is that you will want to flex your horse in between disengagements. If you flex them around and each time ask for the hind to move, they will anticipate and all your hard work at flexing will begin again. Remember to flex, flex, flex then disengage. Keep them guessing and you will see their mind stay open longer.
Now the second part to this training lesson is forward movement. We have the disengagement at a stand still but now we are going to ask for them to move forward, bend them to a stop and yield the hindquarters all in one smooth motion. With the stop and yield you are now setting your horse up for next months lesson of yielding their shoulders. If your horse has enough forward motion, once the hind is disengaged your horses head is already tipped in the right direction to step across on the front. See the beginning of a turn around? You will.
Sit squarely in the saddle and squeeze gently with both legs at the same time move your hands slightly forward on their neck to encourage forward motion. That simple movement will rock your hips just a bit as well. Stay relaxed and keep your reins loose. If the horse refuses to move out there are several options. One have someone stand on the ground and encourage your horse forward. Two use more energy in your legs and Three use the end of your reins just behind your legs. Start out by giving them the benefit of a doubt and only increase the pressure as needed. If we started out using the most force needed our horses would never seek the step before because there wouldn't be one.
Once your horse moves forward let them step out. You can count the steps if you like and use that as your timer. Count 6 steps then slide either hand, lets say the left down the rein. When you do this look down at the horses head, this will cause your body to round out and slump down in the saddle a bit. At the same time place a little more of your weight in the stirrups as you take hold of the rein and bend their head around to the tip of your boot. after doing this a time or two it will not seem so complicated!! If you noticed when doing all of this your body is in the same position for a stop save for you looking down at their head. It is also a good idea to say Whoa very clearly and loudly each time you do this. Your horse will begin to ****ociate the word with the stop.
When you are comfortable with this then each time you ask for the stop, using one rein, also move your boot heel back into position C before their feet stop moving. Feel your horse disengage? He should disengage his hindquarters naturally when you ask for the stop anyway, this only asks for a couple steps more. Its very important to always train both sides of your horse. When you are finished your horse should be calmer than when you started. If he is getting chargy, wanting to prance around or hanging on your hands, he is probably trying to tell you he is confused. Go back to what he knows best whether it is flexing at the stand still or perhaps lounging online. Let them settle for a bit then try again keeping it very simple. Ask for them to move forward then ask them to stop and flex.
In these two pictures you can see that my left foot is back, I am looking at the hip, he is staying light on the halter and is begining to disengage his hindquarter. In the second picture I am sliding my hand down the rein, his nose follows the feel on the halter and I am preparing to stop him.
Thanks so much to all who read. I have had wonderful feed back on all of these artcles and it means a lot to me to know that perhaps I have helped someone. A wonderful trainer once said, " Trainers these days are just trainers, its the ones who still have compasion for the horse and rider that are horsemen." Never stop learning and your journey will never end.
Remember safety first for both horse and rider. If there are ever questions feel free to ask.
Thanks again,
Sheila