January Tack and Training tips
Vol 3 2009
Welcome to my tack and training tip of the month!
(Please keep in mind that these are methods I use most everyday and have worked for me in the past. However all horses are different as well as peoples feel and timing are different from my own. Please exercise safety first for both horse and handler.)
There's something about the smell, feel and movement of leather that moves ones senses. Bringing to mind open prairies, the bellow of a lost calf, the quiet of a thick woods at dawn and the down right need to ride. For those of us who not only love to ride but obsess over our next trip out, the tack that we use speaks volumes for that obsession.
Last month I talked about wild rags and how each one was as unique as the wearer, well chaps are no different. There are literally dozens of combinations and styles to choose from and for a beginner it can be a bit overwhelming. Since there are so many out there I am going to only cover the working styles, Shotgun, Chinks, Batwing, armitas and for a bit of histories sake Woolies.
Woolies are a style of Batwing chaps which means that the leg flares at the bottom, and were once made from the woolliest part of a buffaloes hide. These chaps kept their wearers very, very warm acting as a wonderful wind break on even the coldest of days. Worn with great pride even today by showmen and historians alike, but most now are made out of other materials. These are a very heavy chap and not practical for most horseman/woman, but if you get a chance to ever try a pair on do so; it's a part of our history.
Now we come to the more common working chaps. Its in these that we see words like oil tan, glove tan, buckle front, tie front, buckle leg or snap legs and even laced step ins. If you have ever wanted a pair of good chaps but got lost in all this, here's some hints to finding what you have been looking for.
Oil Tan simply means that it is a slick side out chap that has been treated with oils to help it be water resistant. This is good leather if you have to be in the saddle all day should the weather turn foul.
Glove Tan is also a slick side out chap that is very soft and pliable but not water resistant at all. It will in-fact soak up water like a sponge but can be treated with chap wax to aid in repelling water. This is good leather for groundwork and general riding or working.
Ruff out means just that, the slick side of the leather will be against your legs. If you don't ever want your pant legs bunched this just might be what you're looking for.
Buckle Front is the most common these days and consists of a small buckle. If you ride in a high back saddle I would recommend this style as there is no hardware in the back to damage that custom saddle.
Tie Front is the traditional way chaps were worn. A thin leather string is tied across the front instead of a buckle. Why? Well if you are ever on a bucking colt and that strap gets over the saddle horn, you definatly want it to break or there's going to be one heck of a wreck.
Buckle legs are usually a small roller buckle and are very easy to undo with cold hands.
Snap legs are small swivel snaps that are on leather strings so that you can tie them to the exact length you wish. They are easy to buckle but if you wear layers of cloths you will have to re-tie.
Step-ins are just that. The legs are measured to fit an exact size and are then laced up with leather. There is no hardware to damage your saddle or get rusty. But again if you ride in colder weather they will have to be let out a bit.
The yoke of the chap is the top most part of the chap and can have anything from basket stamping to an intricate rose carving.
Now there is the whole weight thing. A 3-5 oz chap has a good feel to it and will move with you. Fairly thin but will stand up to a beating and can be worn year round because it's not too heavy. A 5-7 oz is a heavier chap that will take some time to break in and feel right, but once they do they will be with you for years to come. Remember the heavier the chap the hotter in the summer and warmer in the winter.
Now for the best part, what type of chap is best for your style of riding?
Shotgun Chaps cover your whole leg and are zippered legs. They offer great protection but because of the zipper there isn't any room for adjustment. This also makes them stiffer and will make climbing on and off a whole lot of work.
*** Chaps are fast becoming the choice of many avid horsemen. These are buckled or snapped or laced in the side of the thigh and are open at the back of the knee making these chaps easier to get on and off with. Ideally the fringe should hang to mid shin so that if you have to bend down your chap should easily rest between the ground and your knee. These are a great working chap and were derived from the original Armita.
Armitas were the beginnings of the *** Chap. Worn by Vaquero's and some of the greatest horseman of our time alike, they are a simple chap with out any hardware at all. The legs are often either laced or a rawhide button is used. The leather is mostly a 3-5 oz weight and a bit longer than a ***. These are unique chaps as everything on them was meant to make the wearer comfortable yet able to withstand years of hard work. The waist on these are a bit different. Instead of a buckle they are a leather strap with fringe so that they are wrapped around the waist to a comfortable fit then tied.
Batwing chaps are a full length chap usually made out of heavier weight leather. These are intended to be just a bit too long while you're on the ground but in the saddle they hang down just far enough to cover and protect the whole outside of your boot. A bit bulky for groundwork but are great for all day riding. These are usually a buckle or snap leg and buckle back but there many options.
The pictures are of some simple chaps without all the bells and whistles. These are good working, using chaps but should you want to have your chaps stand out there are plenty of options. Custom chaps can easily be ordered, but be prepared to give them you measurements. Use a soft tape measure to get it right and be exact, remember these are your chaps they are making and are meant to fit you like a glove. Some chaps can be found on e-bay for good prices but be sure to ask about leather, weight, and check all measurements multiple times just to make sure. Always check a seller's reputation as well to see if the other customers who purchased chaps were satisfied with the craftsmanship.
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In this set of pictures the Armitas are laced up leg. Woolies can be found in all different colors but these sure are pretty. The batwing chaps are very basic and like all chaps can be customized in many ways. Even have a knive sheath built in or a cell phone holder.
Sorry in the picture you can see the Armitas. The first picture in that set was of my chaps that I bought from a lady on e-bay after asking many questions and checking all of her previous customers. My chaps in that picture were purchased off of e-bay after bombarding the lady with questions and asking for more pictures. They are a glove tan leather, 6 oz, buckle front, buckle legs with a Mecate ring on the left side and treated with Ray Holes chap wax.
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For many the howling winter wind signals a time of frustration what with the shorter days and foul weather. The chances to work with our horses are few and far between and as our horses spend more and more time with the herd it takes longer for us to get their attention refocused. In these winter months we have only moments to spend with our horses so it's even more important that we spend them wisely.
If you own a horse, ride on weekends, or around them often then you are a horse trainer to some degree. And to some degree every horse owner wants to train their horse to be better. However the pride that comes with saying, "I taught him that," often falls to the wayside when frustration sets in. Over the next few months I am going to detail a set of basic training techniques for getting your horses attention in a short amount of time while increasing his maneuverability. Each months training article will build from the last, from the ground to under-saddle by April and is for young horses as much as it is for older ones. This month is on getting your horse to flex laterally and ultimately vertically.
Equipment needed: good rope halter and lead line.
Problems encountered: Horse circles, backs, braces or lowers head instead of breaking at the poll
Step one is achieving lateral flexion. Lateral flexion is something that is becoming widespread knowledge now days but the reasoning of why still eludes some. My years of training have often led me in one direction, nose to tail. If your horse is stiff in his muzzle, head, ears and neck we have no steering. Even a horse that neck reins well will be even more responsive after these exercises. Lateral flexion leads to hindquarter control, vertical flexion, collection, better stops, shoulder control and ultimately advanced maneuvers.
Stand at your horse's right side just behind the shoulder. Coil your lead line in the left hand with a bit of slack to the horses halter and place it on the horses back just behind the withers. This hand should stay steady and in place. For the first few times take a hold of the horses halter by the cheek piece and tip their nose towards you just slightly. This lets them feel the pressure distinctly on the left side of their face helping them understand what you are asking. When they get light release them and repeat bringing your horse's nose in closer and closer to their shoulder. Common mistakes are taking up the slack and expecting the horse to touch his shoulder the first time; most horses have to be brought in slowly. Make a point to rub all over their face and ears several times through each exercise. This helps the horse relax and for the hard to bridle or hard to catch this simple technique will help greatly. This might be all you do today and you might only get one side done, but remember everything must be understood to be learned so small steps are just fine. What you do on one side must be done on the other too.
Next slide your right hand down the lead line, grasp it firmly and tip their nose in slightly. When they get light on the halter release. Basically you are going over what you did a moment ago only refining it. This is often when the horse gets confused and will feel the pressure across his nose more than to the side and will begin to back up or brace up against the pressure. Stay with them and if you need to help them take hold of the halter again. Your horse learned before that if he gave to the pressure then the pressure went away be sure to keep that constant in his head and he will only get lighter and lighter... Do this until as soon as he feels your hand sliding down the lead line he gives his nose. Its important to remember one thing, your horse might be tipping his head to you but not tipping his nose in towards his shoulder. You want him to tip his nose to his shoulder because not only is he giving latterly but to a tiny degree he is also breaking at the poll.
When your horse can do this then he is ready to move on. Now that your horse flexes latterly its time to get them to flex at the poll as well. Have your horse stand straight and place your left hand on top of the neck just forward of the withers. With your right hand grasp the halter where the lead line attaches and gently pull back towards your horse's chest. Keep a constant steady pressure. If you have trouble you can take the lead line and place your right hand on the horse's chest to steady your hand but make sure you are making constant contact on the horse's nose. Don't bump them with the halter as this will confuse them with the backing signal. If you are pulling downwards the horse will only yield to the pressure on his poll and lower his head. Remember to give when he gives. Most horses will try everything but what you are asking for first before realization sets in.
Another way of doing this is using a roping rein or loop rein of some kind and hooking it to the halter as though you were getting ready for a bareback ride. Standing on the left side of your horse place your right arm over the withers and take up an even contact on the halter with both left and right hands. Use only ounces of pressure and as soon as you feel the tiniest bit of slack on your hands release. This method works best for those horses that have been trained to back up by touching their chest.
These are the most basic of groundwork exercises but they lead into so much more. Winter has hit most of us very hard this year and severely limited our time outside what with below zero temperatures; however this should be a time of reflection, of learning and returning to basics. Think back through your summer adventures with your horse; was there something there that you thought needed improvement? Is there something you want to teach your horse in the riding season to come? Choose just one thing…. When you have that one thing in your mind, write it down and do some homework by breaking that one thing down into as many small steps as possible. Read everything you can get your hands on about that one thing, don't limit yourself because you don't ride like this trainer or you don't like that ones attitude. Some little thing might just jump out at you that you had never thought of before and even if you don't take anything else from that particular trainer you have just placed one more tool in your training tool box. There are many top trainers that I can't stand to listen to talk but I mute the TV and watch their body movements, hands, timing and the horse's reactions. Find videos and take notes or drive your spouses crazy by standing in the middle of the living room pretending to ride while you practice. Let's make this the learning season!!
In these set of pictures you can see the slack in the lead line as he gives. Where my hands are and where my body placement is. Each time he tucks his nose in and flexes I let him out of it and praise him for trying.
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In this set you can see where my hands are placed and that he is tucking in and breaking at the poll.
Hope you enjoyed this months tack and training tip! Remember safety first for both horse and handler! Thanks so much to all who read.
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